1993 bmw 325is owners manual pdf

Remove all spark plugs. Disconnect the dme relay. Fully open the throttle either by operating the throttle linkage by hand or by having an assistant floor the accelerator pedal. Screw the compression gauge into the no. Be careful not to crossthread the plug hole. On aluminum cylinder heads use extra care, as the threads in these heads are easily ruined. Then, while you read the compression gauge, ask the assistant to crank the engine two or three times in short bursts using the ignition switch.

Read the compression gauge at the end of each series of cranks, and record the highest of these readings. Repeat this procedure for each of the engine's cylinders. Compare the highest reading of each cylinder to the others. The cylinder pressures should be within 7 psi of one another. The cylinder pressure will typically be centered around psi. Do not look for a specific value, but for a consistency across the cylinders. If the results are even, the engine is in good condition.

If a cylinder is unusually low, pour a tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeat the compression test. If the pressure remains low, the valves may not be seating properly a valve job is needed , or the head gasket may be blown near that cylinder. If compression in any two adjacent cylinders is low, and if the addition of oil doesn't help the compression, there is leakage past the head gasket.

Oil and coolant water in the combustion chamber can result from this problem. There may be evidence of water droplets on the engine dipstick when a head gasket has blown. Remove the fan and radiator. Remove the belts and water pump pulley. Remove the vibration damper bolts and remove the damper and pulley.

Remove the timing belt covers and belt. Hold the hub with bmw tool 11 2 or equivalent. Remove the center bolt and the collar. Replace the bolt in the threaded hole about 3 turns. Use a gear puller that has arms that will thread into the holes to remove the hub. If the engine has a 2 piece hub, place the bolt back into the center hole about 3 turns and remove the sprocket using a similar puller as used to remove the first piece.

To install: 6. Install the hub and sprocket with the lettering facing outwards. Check the crankshaft key is in place. Torque the center bolt to ft. Install the timing belt. Use a new timing belt. Install the belt covers. Install the vibration damper and pulley, matching the alignment pin.

Torque the bolts to Install the water pump pulley and tighten the bolts to ft. Install the belts and tighten. Install the fan and radiator.

Fill the radiator with coolant mixture. Remove the belts. Hold the hub with bmw tool 11 2 or equivalent, or lock the flywheel. Install the hub and check the crankshaft key is in place. M42 Engine 1. Hold the hub or lock the flywheel.

The collar part of the washer faces the hub. M50 Engine 1. Check the condition of the cover seal. Replace if necessary. S14 Engine 1. Hold the hub by locking the flywheel. Remove the center bolt. Gently tap the pulley from the crankshaft. Do not use a gear puller or hit it with a hammer, otherwise the pulley can be distorted. Install the pulley and check the crankshaft key is in place. S38 Engine The damper and hub should be removed while the engine is still in the car.

The hub is held with such a high torque on the nut that it would be impractical to hold the engine on a stand while trying to loosen of tighten the nut. The procedure calls for using a brace that bolts to the hub and wedges against the front subframe.

This provides the counter torque necessary. Turn the engine so the tdc mark on the tooth wheel faces straight down. Attach tool 11 2 , or equivalent to the pulley with all 8 of the 8 X 20mm bolts.

The mounting pattern is asymmetrical and the tool can only be mounted one way. The tool is designed so it bears against the right side of the subframe and provide the counteroffers to the removal torque of the vibration damper bolt. Remove the nut. Remove the hub and damper. Remove the damper from the hub. With the tool 11 2 or equivalent in place, torque the nut to 43 ft. Then turn the nut 60 degrees, then another 60 degrees and finish with a 30 degree turn. Remove the tool and tighten the damper bolts to 17 ft.

Replace the belts, fan and radiator. Drain the engine oil and remove the engine from the car. Mount the engine on a workstand in a suitable working area. Invert the engine, so the oil pan is facing up. You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.

Remove the engine front timing cover. Remove the oil pan. Remove the oil pump. Stamp the cylinder number on the machined surfaces of the bolt bosses of the connecting rods and caps for identification when reinstalling. If the pistons are to be removed eventually from the connecting rod, mark the cylinder number on the pistons with silver paint or felt-tip pen for proper cylinder identification and cap-to-rod location.

Remove the connecting rod caps. Install lengths of rubber hose on each of the connecting rod bolts, to protect the crank journals when the crank is removed. Mark the main bearings caps with a number punch or punch so that they can be reinstalled in their original positions. Remove all main bearing caps. Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the block. The bearings are available in various standard sizes; if main bearing clearance is found to be too sloppy, a new bearing both upper and lower halves is required.

Checking Clearance Crankshaft bearing caps and bearing shells should never be filed flush with the cap-to-block mating surface to adjust for wear in the old bearings.

Always install new bearings. Remove the bearing cap. Wipe all oil from the crank journal and bearing cap. Do not rotate the crankshaft while the gaging material is between the bearing and the journal. Install the bearing cap and evenly torque the cap bolts to specification. If this is indicated, measure the crank journal with a micrometer. If bearing clearance is within specifications, the bearing insert is in good shape. Replace the insert if the clearance is not within specifications or show signs of damage.

Always replace both upper and lower inserts as a unit. Standard, 0. If these sizes still produce a sloppy fit, the crankshaft must be replaced. Recheck all clearances after installing new bearings. Replace the rest of the bearings in the same manner. After all bearings have been checked, rotate the crankshaft to make sure there is no excessive drag. Check the bearing clearance if the original crankshaft is being reused.

It is a good idea to check the bearing clearances on both new and used crankshafts. Check the crankshaft for scoring or burn marks. The crankshaft is surface hardened at the factory and can not be reground without the surface treatment being completed.

Remove and inspect the crankshaft. Remove the main bearings from the bearing saddles in the cylinder block and main bearing caps.

Check the bearing surfaces of the new, correct size main bearings with clean engine oil and install them in the bearing saddles in the block and in the main bearing caps. Inspect the oil spray jets in the bearing webs on the M42 and M50 engines. Install the crankshaft and bearing caps. Clean and lubricate the bolts with oil. Torque the bolts on the M20 and M30 engines to ft. On the M42, M50, S14 and S38 engines, torque the bolts to ft. Check the end play of the crankshaft by prying in one direction, then to the other side.

Insert a feeler gauge between the crankshaft and a main bearing cap to measure the play. A dial indicator can also be used to measure the end play. If the end play is not correct, loosen the thrust bearing, tap the crankshaft in both directions and retorque. Recheck the end-play.

Install a new pilot shaft bearing in the end of the crankshaft. Make sure the engine is cool. Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifold and at the transmission clamp. Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator and drain the coolant. Drain the engine oil. Disconnect the accelerator and cruise control cables. Working at the front of the block, disconnect the upper radiator hose, the bypass water hose, and several smaller water hoses. Remove the diagnosis plug located at the front corner of the manifold.

Remove the bracket located just underneath. Disconnect the fuel line and drain the contents into a metal container for safe disposal. Disconnect all electrical connectors and unclip and remove the wiring harness.

There is a relay located in an L-shaped box near the strut tower. Disconnect and remove it. Unclamp and remove the air hose. Remove the mounting nuts and remove the assembly. Disconnect the hose at the coolant overflow tank. Disconnect the idle speed positioner vacuum hose and then remove the positioner from the manifold.

If equipped with 4 wheel drive, disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo mounted on the manifold. Place a drain pan underneath and then disconnect the water connections at the front of the intake manifold. Disconnect the electrical connector. Disconnect the heater water hoses. Press down on the vent tube collar and install the special tool or a similar device to retain the collar in the unlocked position.

Disconnect the vent tube and inspect its O-ring seal, replacing it, if necessary. Unbolt the dipstick tube at the manifold. Remove the fuel hose bracket at the cylinder head. Make sure the engine is cold. Then, place a metal container under the connection and disconnect the fuel hose at the connection.

Disconnect the high tension lead from the coil. Disconnect and remove the coolant expansion tank. If equipped with 4 wheel drive, disconnect the intake manifold vacuum hose leading the servo that engages 4 wheel drive. Disconnect the fuel injector connectors at all 6 injectors, as well as the 2 additional electrical connectors to sensors on the head.

Disconnect the oil pressure sending unit connector. Then, unfasten the carriers and remove this wiring harness toward the left side of the vehicle. Disconnect the coil high tension wire and disconnect the high tension wires at the plugs. Then, disconnect the tube in which the wires run at the camshaft cover. Disconnect the pcv hose.

Then, remove the retaining nuts and remove the camshaft cover. Turn the crankshaft so the tdc line is aligned with the indicator and the valves of No. Remove the distributor cap. Then, unscrew and remove the rotor. Unscrew and remove the adapter just underneath the rotor. Remove the cover underneath the adapter.

Check its O-ring and replace it, if necessary. Remove the distributor mounting bolts and the protective cover. These engines are equipped with a rubber drive and timing belt. Remove the belt covers. To loosen belt tension, loosen the tension roller bracket pivot bolt and adjusting slot bolt.

Push the roller and bracket away from the belt to release the tension, hold the bracket in this position, and tighten the adjusting slot bolt to retain the bracket it this position.

Remove the timing belt. Make sure to avoid rotating both the engine and camshaft from this point onward. Remove the cylinder head mounting bolts in exact reverse order of the proper tightening sequence. Then, remove the cylinder head. Install the head with a new gasket. Check that all passages line up with the gasket holes. Clean the threads on the head bolts and coat with a light coating of oil.

Keep oil out of the bolt cavities in the head or the head could be cracked or proper torquing affected. Torque bolts in a crisscross pattern staring at the center of the head and working towards the end. If equipped with hex head bolts, torque to ft. Wait 15 minutes then torque to ft. After the installation is completed, run the engine for 25 minutes and give the bolts a final turn of degrees. If equipped with Torx bolts, torque to 22 ft. Do not wait or run engine. Clean both cylinder head and block sealing surfaces thoroughly with a hardwood scraper.

Inspect the surfaces for flatness. Complete the installation by reversing all removal procedures. Torque the head bolts starting from the center and move in a crisscross fashion to the ends of the head. Make sure to refill the engine oil pan and cooling system with proper fluids and to bleed the cooling system. Replace the gaskets for the exhaust system connections, if necessary.

Coat the studs with the proper sealant. Note that the plugs for the dme reference mark and speed signals should be connected so the gray plug goes to the socket with a ring underneath.

Align the timing marks when installing the timing belt. The crankshaft sprocket mark must point at the notch in the flange of the front engine cover. The camshaft sprocket arrow must point at the alignment mark on the cylinder head. Also, the No. Bmw recommends that the timing belt be replaced every time the cylinder head is removed and the belt is disturbed as a consequence. Tension the belt. Start the engine and run it until it is hot. Stop the engine and again remove the camshaft cover.

Using an angle gauge, retorque the head bolts to specification. Reinstall the camshaft cover. Unbolt the exhaust pipe connections at the manifold and at the transmission pipe clamp. Remove the splash shield from under the engine.

With the engine cool, remove the drain plugs from the bottom of the radiator and block. Disconnect the throttle and cruise control cables at the throttle lever. Unbolt the cable housing retainer and remove the housing and cables. Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the air inlet hose from the air flow sensor. The unit on the opposite side of the intake hose from the air cleaner contains the idle speed control valve, which must be removed next.

Loosen the hose clamps and pull off the hoses. Remove the mounting nut and then pull the idle speed control out of the air intake hose. Disconnect and plug the brake booster vacuum line. Disconnect the radiator hoses, the heater hoses and the fuel lines. Mark the lines for ease of installation. Disconnect the venting valve vacuum line and electrical connector from under the intake manifold.

Disconnect the connections on the plug plate located under the intake manifold and remove the plug plate. Remove the fan. Lift out the expansion rivets on either side and remove the fan shroud. Disconnect the throttle body coolant hoses.

Loosen the mount for the engine oil dipstick. Disconnect the plugs near the thermostat housing. Loosen the hose clamps and pull off the coolant hoses. Disconnect the plug in the line leading to the oxygen sensor. Disconnect the other plugs. Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines, collecting fuel in a metal container for safe disposal.

Disconnect the fuel pipe running along the cylinder head, near the manifold. Pull off the electrical connector at the throttle body. Remove the caps, then remove the attaching bolts and remove the wiring harness carrier and harness for the fuel injectors. Disconnect the coil high tension lead. Disconnect the high tension wires at the plugs.

Then, remove the mounting nuts and remove the carrier for the high tension wires from the head. The timing belt must be replaced anytime it is removed or the tensioner loosened.

Remove the heater hose from the cylinder head. Press down on the venting pipe collar and lock into position. Remove the valve cover. Check for any remaining connections that may have been missed. Remove the head bolts in a crisscross pattern starting from the ends towards the center. Lift off the head. Make checks of the lower cylinder head and block deck surface to make sure they are true.

Install a new head gasket, making sure all bolt, oil, and coolant holes line up. Use a 0. Apply a very light coating of oil to the head bolts. Don't let oil get into the bolt holes or apply excessive amounts of oil, or torque could be incorrect and the block could crack.

Use the type of bolt without a collar. Install the bolts, finger tight. Connect the venting pipe and release the collar. Connect the heater hose on the cylinder head. Connect the throttle body coolant hoses and install the wiring harnesses and injector plugs.

Connect the sensors and vacuum lines. Install a new timing belt. Never reuse a timing belt. Install the fan and cowl. Connect the fuel lines, air intake hoses, vacuum lines, idle air control and throttle cables. Fill the engine with fluids and bleed the coolant system. Connect the exhaust system and the negative battery terminal. M30 Engine See Figure 3 Fig. Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the air inlet hose. Remove the mounting nut and remove the air cleaner.

Pull off the retainers for the airflow sensor, and then pull the unit off its mountings, disconnecting the vacuum hose from the pcv system at the same time. Working on the coolant expansion tank, disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the nuts on both sides. Loosen their clamps and then disconnect all hoses and remove the tank. Disconnect the heater hoses at both the control valve and at the heater core.

Remove the valve, if needed. Remove the attaching nuts for the camshaft cover and remove it. Turn the engine until the timing marks are at tdc and the No. Remove the upper timing case cover. Remove the timing chain tensioner piston. Remove the upper timing chain sprocket bolts and pull the sprocket off, holding it upward and then supporting it securely so the relationship between the chain and sprockets top and bottom will not be lost. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing.

Remove the bolts and remove the support for the intake manifold. Remove the cylinder head bolts in the opposite of numbered order. Then, install 4 special pins part No. This is necessary to keep the rocker arm shafts from moving. Then, lift off the head. Torque bolts in the correct order to ft.

Remove the pins holding the rocker shafts in place. Now, complete the first stage of torquing by torquing bolts in the correct order, to the same specification.

Wait 20 minutes. Torque to ft. Once the procedure is completed, run the engine for 25 minutes. Tighten the bolts, in the correct order, with a torque angle gauge degrees, using special tool 11 2 or equivalent. Reinstall the timing sprocket to the camshaft. Make sure the camshaft is in proper time, that new lock plates are used, and that nuts are properly torqued.

Install the tensioner piston. When reinstalling the timing cover, make sure to apply a liquid sealer to the joints between upper and lower timing covers. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Note these points: A. Adjust throttle, speed control, and accelerator cables. Inspect and if necessary replace the exhaust manifold gasket. When reinstalling the cylinder block coolant plug, coat it with sealer.

Make sure to refill the cooling system and bleed it. Make sure to refill the oil pan with the correct amount of oil. Install the timing chain so the down pin on the camshaft sprocket is at the 8 o'clock when its tapped bores are at right angles to the engine.

Torque the sprocket bolts to 6. Check the camshaft cover gasket, replacing, as necessary. Tighten camshaft cover bolts in the order shown. Torque the bolts to 6. When reinstalling the fan shroud, make sure all guides are located properly.

Coat the tapered portion of the exhaust pipe connection flange with the proper sealant. Torque the attaching nuts to 4. M42 Engine See Figure 4 Fig. Remove the intake manifold and the exhaust manifold. Remove the ignition coil cover and pull off the spark plug connectors. Remove the complete ignition leads. Disconnect the coolant hoses and remove the position sensor. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat. Unscrew the upper timing case cover. Rotate the engine in the direction of the rotation until the camshaft peaks of the intake and exhaust camshafts for cylinder No.

The arrows on the sprocket face up. Remove the chain tensioner. Remove the upper chain guide, chain bolt on the right side and the sprockets. Remove the cylinder head bolts from the outside to the inside in several steps using the proper tool. Clean the sealing surfaces on the cylinder head and the crankcase.

Clean the new head bolts and the bores of the cylinder block. Do not allow oil or contaminants to fill the bores. Install a new gasket for the timing case at the front of the cylinder head. If the valve train or camshafts were removed, wait 30 minutes between the time of mounting the camshafts and mounting the head. This will allow the hydraulic lash adjusters to bleed down and prevent the valves from contacting the pistons.

Install a new head gasket in the proper orientation as marked on the gasket. Check the condition of the guide dowels in the cylinder deck. Torque the new head bolts in a crisscross pattern starting at the center of the head and working towards the ends.

Tighten to 24 ft. Install tool 11 2 or equivalent, to hold the crank at tdc. Install tool 11 3 or equivalent, to hold the camshafts in proper alignment. Turn the camshafts and install the tool, then rotate the crankshaft back to tdc. This will prevent the valves from striking the pistons. Install the camshaft sprockets with the arrows pointing up. Install the timing chain, timing guide bolt on the right side and the upper chain guide.

If not installing a new tensioner piston, knock the outer sleeve of the tensioner piston so the piston is released from the sleeve. Assemble the tensioner with the spring, the piston and the snaprings in position. Place in a vice and press together until both snaprings engage. If the piston starts to extend, the procedure must be done again. The compressed tensioner will be 2. BMW - e - Workshop Manual - - Best iPad Holder For Car.

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